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Angkor Thom

Monday 16th November

We had breakfast over the road in the Mandalay Inn, then took a tuk-tuk to Angkor Thom. This is not a single monument but rather an entire city, with walls surrounding a square about 3km a side. It was the last occupied capital of the Khmer empire and contains some of the most impressive buildings, in the best condition.

We came in by the south gate, in pleasant temperatures at about 8.15am. Richard went with the tuk-tuk but I got out and walked the 1.5km to the centre, buying some bananas to feed to the monkeys on the way; riding an elephant would have been another option.

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churning the sea of milk: asuras and devas
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selling bananas
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waiting for the bananas
Rather than starting with the famous monuments, Richard took me to his favourite place, the east (or Death) gate. We had this to ourselves for quite some time. We also looked at the Victory gate, also in the east wall but to the north.
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East (Death) gate of Angkor Thom
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Richard
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the Victory gate
We went back to the centre of Angkor Thom, then Richard went back to the hotel, while I explored the Bayon. Built by Jayavarman VII, this features his head repeated scores of times, and extensive, detailed carvings. These involve lots of battles, but also scenes of ordinary life. There were a lot more people here!
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Bayon carvings
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crocodile eating a fish
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Bayon carvings
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Bayon doors and lintels
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a head of Jayavarman VII

Next up was the Baphuon, the restoration of which was the subject of a seminar I went to in Sydney before the trip.

Different groups have taken on restoration responsibility for different monuments. A Japanese group is working on the Bayon, while a French one handles the Baphuon.

Then I walked along causeways and climbed the Phimeanakas.

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the Phimeanakas
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Phimeanakas pool
I visited Preah Palilay, the Tep Pranam shrine, the Terrace of the Leper King, the Terrace of the Elephants, and the complex of temples to the east of the central north-south axis.
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Preah Palilay
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water buffalo hiding from the heat

It was 1pm and pretty damn hot by the time I headed back to the hotel to shower, meet up with Richard, and have lunch.

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