museums + galleries
Thursday 4th September
We had a day and a half to explore Reykjavik's sights and attractions.
We knew already that the National Museum was closed (for year-long
renovations) and were to find several others had also shut - in Iceland,
many places close on the 1st of September. But first we collected our
washing and had hot dogs, coffee and bagels for breakfast. There was
some sun, but mostly it was overcast, with a sharp drizzle.
Walking east, our first stop was Asmundursafn, the Ásmundur Sveinsson
sculpture museum. This is one of three galleries that make up the
Reykjavik Art Museum; the one 500 króna ticket gets you into all of
them for the day. The sculptures were great and the building itself
We then wandered through the Botanic Gardens, where we found a nice
historical display at the hot springs, explaining how poor women used
to go there to do the washing. We were trying to find the Zoo, but the
rain had become quite heavy by this time so we gave up on that and caught
the bus back to the city centre.
Next stop was another of the Reykjavik Art Museum galleries, this one
with collections of paintings by Johannes Kjarval and Eyjólfur Einarsson,
and some driftwood sculptures by Sæmundur Valdimarsson. Next we went
to Hallgrímskirkja, where we climbed the tower - it was dramatically
windy, but there were superb views in all directions - and listened to
an organ performance (and Camilla bought a CD of Icelandic choral music).
the Phallological Museum
Just over the road from the church is the Einar Jónsson museum.
Camilla found his use of symbolism a bit creepy, though when we'd seen
his statues in public places they'd seemed more natural. Next came the
phallological museum, which she found even creepier. This is really
a trophy collection rather than a real museum - there's almost no
explanatory material at all, just the occasional "certificate" of
authentication - and expensive just for the "eek" value.
Next we went to the third of the Reykjavik Art Museum galleries, in the
Hafnarhús (Harbour House); the central exhibit here is a collection of
Erró political cartoons. We stopped for a hot dog, then went to the
Culture House, which has exhibits on saga manuscripts (including many
original manuscripts), cartography and exploration, and the Vikings
in Greenland. This is a fascinating museum, which we left only when it
closed and could have spent many more hours in.
On a quick bookshop crawl, Camilla bought
some Mr Men books in Icelandic, while I bought Ring
of Seasons and Angels of
the Universe (it was a toss-up between that and Reykjavik
101). We also bought some hákarl (rotten shark) from the supermarket.
Anna at the Arni Magnusson Institute
It was getting pretty damp as we walked over to the university and the
Arni Magnusson Institute, where we met Anna. Using the opportunity
to grab some Net access, I discovered my ATM withdrawals were coming
from my credit card rather than my savings account, and did a quick
transfer to cover that. We had dinner in Cafe Paris, with Anna talking
about the politics and personalities of Old Norse studies in Iceland;
I tried the smoked lamb flatbread.
Back at Anna's flat we braved the hákarl - I didn't think it was
that bad, just a bit gristly, but Anna and Camilla were more unenthused.
We only tried the fleshy bits, though, not the whiter fatty bits.
Friday 5th September
We had waffles and coffee for breakfast, and chatted to the young American
running the waffle shop.
Then we headed to a photography exhibition at the city library:
Travel Journeys by French-Vietnamese photographer
Claire Xuan. Then we went to the university, where we checked out
before saying goodbye to Anna.
We walked to the National Gallery but found that closed, so we caught
a taxi to the Perlan. The Saga exhibition there is really not
worth the money - it's three times as expensive as the Culture House and
maybe 10% as interesting, with wax-figure dioramas and audio commentary
from a portable CD player. The whole thing feels like a big tourist trap,
complete with fake "geysir" in atrium.
From Perlan we descended through some woods to Hotel Loftleiðir, from
where we caught the flybus to the airport. Camilla bought a copy of Independent
People, we ate skyr and a strange malt drink and two hot dogs each
(which was too many), then got our tax refund and changed our remaining
króna for pounds. And it was goodbye to Iceland.
Previous: Reykjanes - Grindavik, Blue Lagoon
It would be easy to spend four or five days in Reykjavik without running
out of "major" attractions, at least if you're interested in art.
(The night-life, which I know nothing about, might be a replacement
for some people.) Of the places we saw, I'd put the Culture House and
Hallgrímskirkja at the top of the "must see" list.
We didn't get to see the National Museum, the National Gallery, Nordic
House, the Natural History Museum, the Labour Unions Art Gallery, or
the Electrical Museum, among other sights. We'll just have to come back
[Alternative spellings: Asmundur Sveinsson, Eyjolfur Einarsson, Hallgrimskirkja, Erro, hakarl]