After breakfast we walked up Pigeon Valley to Urchisar. This took us
through a dramatic landscape, with the sides of the valley eroded in
fascinating patterns. There's a fairly dense network of paths and any
flat areas on the valley floors have been planted, mostly with potatoes.
our mezze plate
We shared a mezze plate for lunch, then I climbed Urchisar castle for some
360 degree views.
a farm with solar hot water and a satellite dish
Gabi got the bus back to Goreme, while I tried to find the entrance to
Love Valley and failed, so I walked back along the road and then down
from Panorama Point. On the way I visited a rock house, where the woman
had entertained Helen Clark: her son's brother-in-law had married a New
Zealander — and was related to Mustafa, the owner of our hotel.
Ali in Sultan Carpet
We visited the carpet shop recommended by Mustafa, Sultan Carpet
, which had a lot
of lovely carpets (and was fixed price, so no concerns about haggling).
Gabi bought a Kurdish rug and we talked to the two partners running the
shop. Ali was American-educated, while Shamsi had a doctorate in finance
from Sabanci University and worked part-time for one of the Sabanci banks.
We argued politics with Shamsi, covering the Kurdish "problem", the
Armenian "genocide", and the EU, among other topics — he seemed
a fairly hardline Kemalist, unhappy about the possibility of Turkey
joining the EU because it would impinge on the military's control.
Next: Goreme hikes
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