La Roche-Bernard + the Grande Brière
Tuesday 19th June
We had morning tea sitting on a rock looking over the river and then took a quick look around the old town. The local museum, the Musée de la Vilaine Maritime, covers everyday life and transport along the river. There is also a "trail" of signs describing historical events: 8th century settlement, the Red/White conflicts of the Revolution, and so forth. And there are lots of little artisan's workshops, where Camilla bought some tin and glass animals and wanted to buy some pottery.
Heading for the Grand Brière, we stopped at the information centre in St Marais de Chappelle to get some maps and pamphlets then proceeded to Île-de-Fedrun, an island in the marsh connected to the "mainland" by a narrow causeway. Here we had lunch in La Hutte Briéronne, which specialised in local cuisine: Camilla had fish and I had a "tiled" duck which came with an excellent plum sauce.
We then hired a boat (20 euros) and spent two hours paddling around the island. This was fantastic — one of the highlights of the whole trip — with backyards and (semi-wild?) geese and ducks on our left and the marsh, with herons and rail, on our right. Photography was inhibited by the need to row, but we saw one heron taking a crayfish and another taking a fish.